FELINE  FAQ

How can I stop my old cat from attacking my new one?
      My two-year-old cat occasionally hisses at my new one-year-old cat when they are together. I got the new cat three weeks ago. They play together, but then sometimes, for no reason that I am aware of, the older one hisses and looks angry. What could cause this and what can I do about it?

Reward non-aggressive intercat behavior and separate them when they fight.  With any type of aggression, it is important to be sure that there is no medical reason for it. I recommend that you take your two cats to your veterinarian for full physical examinations. The doctor may also recommend bloodwork depending on the outcome of the physical exams. A number of physical problems can cause aggressive behavior in cats. These include hyperthyroidism, certain forms of epilepsy, and perhaps any condition that causes pain -- arthritis, impacted anal glands, dental problems, and many others. Various organic brain diseases such as tumors can also cause aggressive feline behavior. The veterinarian will be able to assess the health of the cats and if he or she finds that they are healthy, then the doctor may determine that the problem you are seeing is intercat aggression. Various studies have shown that most domestic cats in close proximity will hiss and swat at each other on some occasions. Intercat aggression may have a number of causes. These include conflicts relating to feline social hierarchy in the household, mating issues in unneutered cats, fear, territorial conflicts, and other causes that often are not well understood.
      To prevent injury, the cats should be separated when you are not at home to watch them. The aggressor should be placed in a less favored part of the house, like a spare bedroom, while the other cat may either have free access to the rest of the house or be placed in a favored part of the house. When the cats are together they should have different-pitched bells placed on their collars. These bells will help you to determine where the cats are and what they are doing. If the cats play well together and are quiet, they should be rewarded with food treats. Sometimes aggressive behavior between cats resolves within a few weeks or months. However, if the aggressive behavior continues, your veterinarian may decide to refer you for consultation with a feline behaviorist. The behavioral specialist can evaluate the nature of the aggressive episodes and recommend behavioral modification techniques and other steps as needed. In a few select cases, medication may help alter the aggressive tendencies. In your case, it may only be necessary for you to use food treats as rewards for good behavior. This positive reinforcement may diminish your older cat's hissing and allow the cats to play well together.

Is an irregular heart beat in a cat always serious? 
      My veterinarian told me that my three-year-old cat has an irregular heartbeat. The doctor said it was not serious and that I shouldn't worry. Could an irregular heartbeat lead to any serious problems for my cat in the future?

An irregular heart rhythm is not always a serious problem in a cat.  Arrhythmias, or irregular heartbeats, are physiological responses to underlying disease processes or disorders. Such disorders may arise in the heart itself or in another location of the body. An example of the latter would be a kidney disease-associated elevation in the blood's potassium level that can cause an arrhythmia that can result in asystole (the heart stops). An irregular heartbeat can be an incidental finding in some animals or may be an indicator of a serious problem.
      Arrhythmias are detectable on electrocardiograms (ECG or EKG). Some arrhythmias are associated with changes in the normal heart sounds heard through a stethoscope. Many will also present as either faster (tachyarrhythmia) or slower (bradyarrhythmia) than the normal heart rate. The normal heart rate for cats is 160 to 240 beats per minute. An excessively fast heart rate (tachycardia) is a heart rate greater than 240. An abnormally slow rate (bradycardia) is one below 160. Both tachyarrhythmias and bradyarrhythmias may be associated with pathophysiologic processes that cause hypoxia, or low blood-oxygen concentration.
      Signs of clinically significant arrhythmias may include varying degrees of weakness, fatigue, and exercise intolerance, depending on the severity of the condition. Patients with severe disease may have a wobbly gait, fainting spells, and seizures. In severe cases death may result.
      In a young cat, an arrhythmia called a gallop rhythm may occur and is not considered to be a problem, especially if the cat is nervous. Many times, the irregular beat is temporary, occurring during times of stress or anxiety. This sounds like what your veterinarian probably detected in your cat. These arrhythmias seem to have no ill effects on the cat's condition for the long term.
      Your veterinarian will listen to your cat's heart at each physical exam visit and will let you know if there are any changes. Certain arrhythmias can indicate primary heart disease, but these typically are more commonly detected in older cats or have been present since birth.  If your veterinarian becomes concerned, he or she will probably recommend a cardiac work-up. This usually involves chest x-rays, an EKG, and sometimes an ultrasound study of the heart. Veterinary cardiologists are available for those patients that need referral.

Why should I spay or neuter my cat? 

Pet overpopulation is a major problem.  Most people are aware that there are too many cats in the world, but some still fail to have their cat neutered. A male cat can impregnate numerous female cats, while female cats can give birth to multiple litters in one season.
      There are also various medical reasons why cats should be neutered. Intact female cats run an increased risk of certain mammary tumors, uterine infections, and uterine and ovarian cancers. Intact male cats, or toms, are more likely to mark their territory by spraying urine in places that include the inside of your house. Most people find the strong odor of tomcat urine almost unbearable, and it is virtually impossible to get it out of carpets and furniture.
      Cats that are neutered are likely to roam less, and hence have a decreased risk of being hit by a car, getting into cat fights that can transmit fatal viral infections, and being a nuisance to the neighborhood. A neutered cat, male or female, is likely to live a longer and healthier life, especially if it is kept indoors.

How can I prevent my cat from vomiting hair-balls?
My cat vomits a hairball on my carpet every one to two months. What can I do to prevent this?

Use a hairball medication.  Hairballs are a common problem in cats that groom themselves frequently, as well as in those that have long hair. When a cat grooms itself, it swallows hair, and over time the hair can accumulate within the stomach. Eventually, the hair causes enough irritation to the stomach that the cat will vomit it up.
      Owners may opt to use hairball remedies such as Laxatone, which contain ingredients such as petroleum jelly that help bind the hair in the stomach and move it into the intestines and passed in the feces. A cat treated with such a remedy will defecate the hairball instead of vomiting it.  Laxatone treatment initially is given daily for about a week, and then every couple of days thereafter for maintenance. Some cats need treatment only every few weeks to keep hair from accumulating.
      For those cats that reject Laxatone, there are now hairball diets and treats available that claim to decrease problems with hairballs. If a cat continues to vomit, have it examined by a veterinarian to be sure that the vomiting truly is caused by hairballs and not by an underlying disease. Cats that swallow string or toys may also vomit, but the ingesting of foreign objects is a more serious condition that requires veterinary attention.

Can my cat get heartworms?

Yes, cats can get heartworms.  But they do have a lesser incidence of the disease compared with dogs in the same geographical location. Female cats seem to have an even stronger resistance to heartworms than males. Unlike dogs, cats can remain asymptomatic throughout the course of the disease; eventually, heartworms in cats may die off without causing any serious harm to the lungs or other organs.
      If you live in a region with a heavy heartworm incidence, it is recommended that your cat be put on heartworm prevention. This medication, called Heartgard, is safely formulated for felines and should be given orally once a month to prevent new heartworm infections. Currently, there is no safe method for killing heartworms in cats.

My cat is tearing up our house and I'm considering declawing. Is this a good idea?
      Our cat is doing considerable damage to the house with her claws.  I think declawing may be a solution.  But is this the best way to handle the situation?

Train her to use a scratching post.  Cats by nature absolutely love to stretch and scratch certain surfaces. Scratching allows the cat not only to stretch, but to sharpen their claws and mark their territory. This is a very normal behavior for all cats, but sometimes the cat chooses scratching sites that are not particularly ideal - the new couch that was just delivered, you with your new pants on, or the expensive sheers hanging in the window! Obviously these are not ideal surfaces and the cat's behavior must be curbed.
      Most cats can be trained to use a scratching post instead of the alternatives. This is done by first purchasing a scratching post that has a wide base, is secure, at least two to three feet tall, and has a rough surface on it that is attractive to the cat - such as burlap or wound rope. It must have these features because the cat has to be able to stand up and pull down on the post to scratch and stretch, yet not pull it over. These posts can be made or purchased from many different stores.
      Training begins with placing the scratching post where the cat sleeps or somewhere that it enjoys hanging out. Then, carry your cat to the scratching post, gently take its front feet, and rub them up and down on the post. If the cat struggles or is scared, don't restrain it or continue to frighten it - remember this must be fun! The key is repetition, and gradually your cat will learn that the scratching post is an approved surface to destroy at any time.
      It is also important that you realize cats can be trained, and you must teach the cat that scratching the curtains, couch, your new pants, or any place besides the scratching post is unacceptable. This may involve using a squirt gun, loud noise, or something else that alerts the cat while it's scratching off-limit places. Never strike or hit the cat as this will cause more harm than good. Be patient and don't give up repetition.
      If you have tried unsuccessfully to train your cat and are considering giving it up, declawing is another option. This is only to be done on cats that are strictly indoors. Only the front feet should be declawed. The back feet are usually not a problem and are left alone so that if the cat were ever to get outside, it could still climb up a tree or partly defend itself.
      Declawing is best done at the time of spaying or neutering - approximately five to six months of age. This procedure can be done very humanely with the use of pain medications. Pain management has the best results if it is started approximately 15 to 20 minutes before the surgery and continued for the next 24 to 48 hours. There are many different pain medications that can be used safely by veterinarians in cats,and they are relatively inexpensive and very effective. They ensure a pain-free experience and allow the cat to rest comfortably for the next 24 to 48 hours. This also helps the cat to not associate the veterinarian with a negative experience! Consult with your veterinarian about the use of medications such as butorphanol, fentanyl patches, morphine, and buprinex.  Consult with your veterinarian about these options and alternatives to declawing your cat.

My cat is pregnant. How will I know when she is ready to give birth?
My cat is approximately a month and a half pregnant. She is very big in the belly, and I can see all the babies moving. Her nipples are very big, but she doesn't show any signs of getting ready for the birth. How can I tell when she is ready for birth?

Observe her eating habits.  Your cat is huge since she is in the late stage of pregnancy. The average gestation of cats is 63 days, making her just about due.  She will begin to show nesting behavior when she is ready to have the kittens. She may also refuse to eat during the last 24 to 48 hours of gestation. This is a good indicator that she is going to be giving birth soon. If she does not give birth, then you may need to have her examined by a veterinarian. It is important to provide her with a secluded, inviting place to have the kittens. A closet or bathroom that can be partially closed off is a good place to allow her to have them. Provide her with a box and clean towels.
      Mother cats do not like to have an audience when giving birth and can even delay birth if they feel bothered. They will often become restless and pant prior to the birth. Some cats will vocalize or purr. It is okay to sneak in to check her periodically, but you should disturb her as little as possible. Her instincts will get her through the process very well.
      I would recommend that you find a veterinarian to examine the mother, or queen, and the kittens within a few days after the birth. They will palpate her to be sure all of the kittens have been delivered and that she is doing well. The kittens will all be checked for congenital abnormalities and overall health.
      Be sure that you are feeding the queen a good quality kitten (not adult formula) food so that she will have enough nutrition for nursing.  If you do not wish to raise any more kittens, then I strongly recommend that you have the queen spayed after the kittens are weaned. This will help to keep her healthy for the long run.

How can I stop my cat from urinating outside the litter box? My cat will not urinate in her litter box. Instead, she urinates everywhere else in the house, including the area right next to the litter box. What can we do to stop this?

Manage the litter box.  Unfortunately, this is a very common problem for cat owners. It is possible that your cat is exhibiting this behavior because of an underlying medical disorder, so the pet should be examined by a veterinarian to rule out disease as a cause of inappropriate urination. Cats may urinate in inappropriate places because of urinary tract infections, bladder stones, and feline lower urinary tract disease. Tests such as urinalysis, bloodwork, and x-rays of the abdomen may identify the presence of such medical problems.
      However, inappropriate urination is most often a behavioral problem. One of the most common reasons that cats stop using the litter box is that the box is not kept clean enough for their tastes. Boxes need to be scooped at least daily, and the litter should be changed frequently. Many cats are best accommodated with two separate boxes: one for urination and one for defecation. Both boxes must be kept clean. If you have multiple cats, many veterinarians recommend that you provide at least one litter box per cat. You may want to provide litter box access on each floor of the house.
      Also consider whether your cat has access to the litter box. Is there a closed door blocking your cat's path to the litter box? In addition, a dog that stands guard or a dominant cat may not permit the affected cat to use the box. Other causes of aversion to the litter box include proximity to appliances that are noisy, such as televisions and washing machines, and those that turn on or off by use of a timer. Cats that are disturbed in the litter box by another cat, child, or dog may develop a litter box aversion as well.
      It is possible that your cat is reacting to a change in the box location or type of litter. Some cats are very particular about where they go, and others are sensitive to the perfumes or dust in the litter. It may be necessary to try different types of litter -- for example, a non-clumping clay litter versus a sand-like clumping one -- until you find one that meets your pet's needs. In addition, if you provide the cat with a covered litter box, you might try switching to an uncovered box to see if the pet prefers it.
      There are other methods for controlling inappropriate urination. You may want to move the litter box to the area where your cat is urinating. Always clean the soiled areas of your home with a non-ammonia cleaner. Because cats are drawn to the scent of urine, they may continue to go in the same inappropriate site if they are stimulated by the smell of previous accidents. The best cleaning products contain enzymes that degrade the urine and prevent stains. These products should be available through your veterinarian or local pet store. Because your cat may have a preference for carpet, you can change the way the area feels by using plastic carpet protectors or aluminum foil. This substrate change may make the litter box a preferred spot. In some cases, you may want to move your cat's food bowl to the area that she had previously soiled. Because cats are fastidious they don't like to eat and eliminate in the same place.
      It is important to talk to your veterinarian about the inappropriate urination. He or she will have some additional suggestions tailored to the specific needs of your cat. In some cases, medication can be helpful in controlling the problem, but it is usually reserved for cases where other possibilities have been exhausted. Veterinary behavioral specialists may offer additional insights.

What causes many white cats to be deaf? 
We just adopted a two-year old white male cat. We have had him for a week and he appears to be deaf, which I guess is common in white cats. What causes this? Are there any special needs or care he should have?