Bolton Veterinary Hospital

CANINE  FAQ

 

My dog was vaccinated as a puppy. Does he need ongoing vaccinations?
I made sure my dog got all of the necessary booster shots when he was a puppy.  Do I still need to take him in for vaccinations now that he's older?

Dogs need yearly protection.  Every puppy that was properly vaccinated needs a yearly vaccine booster for DA2PP-L, and, depending on the state laws, a rabies vaccine either yearly or every two to three years.  DA2PP-L is a multi vaccine that combines protection from several viruses into one.
      Most vaccines need to be repeated on a yearly basis because the immunity that the vaccine stimulates declines over time. A vaccine usually contains altered viral antigen that stimulates the dog's immune system to produce antibodies against the virus. The viral antigen is altered in the vaccine so that it does not cause the actual disease, but it stimulates the immune system to develop defenses against the virus in case of exposure to the disease at a later time.  Some typical ongoing vaccinations for dogs include the following:

  • DA2PP-L vaccine- this contains a combination of Distemper, Adenovirus- type 2 that causes Infectious Canine Hepatitis (liver disease), Leptospirosis, Parainfluenza, and Parvovirus.
  • Rabies vaccine - every year to three years depending on the state laws.
  • Lyme vaccine - usually given yearly, this vaccine is recommended for dogs at high risk of tick exposure. Deer ticks or "hard ticks" can transmit bacteria called Borrelia burgdorferi, which cause Lyme disease. There is some controversy as to the use and effectiveness of this vaccine. Consult with your veterinarian about vaccinating your dog for Lyme disease.
  • Bordetella vaccine- This vaccine is either given intranasally (drops into the nose) or as an injection under the skin. The intranasal form has been found to provide better immunity. The vaccine helps protect against infectious tracheobronchitis, or kennel cough.

Consult with your veterinarian about your dog's risk and need for vaccines such as the Lyme and Bordetellavaccines. The DA2PP-L and Rabies vaccines need to be repeated in all dogs.
      Although some breeders opt to give vaccines themselves, veterinarians do not advocate unlicensed individuals vaccinating animals. Nevertheless, if you are giving vaccines, please be sure that you know how to do so properly. If vaccines are given accidentally into a blood vessel, there can be a severe shock reaction and the dog can die. Also, if vaccines are left out on the shipping dock, not properly refrigerated, or not given correctly, the dog will be inadequately protected from potentially life threatening diseases.
      Remember that vaccines are not the entire reason that an animal needs to go the veterinarian annually. A physical exam is critical, because this allows the veterinarian to detect any problems or diseases before it is too late to do anything about them.

How can I keep flies away from my outdoor dog? 
Flies won't leave my outdoor dog alone. He has sores and scabs on his ears  - what should I do?

Take him indoors.  All animals that spend time outdoors are susceptible to fly bites--especially those that are confined to a small area because they can't run away. Some animals are even more attractive to certain fly types than others. Stable flies have mouth parts that can tear open the flesh and suck blood from the wound. This causes a lot of irritation to the area and it can sometimes become infected with repeated fly attacks.
      Flies most commonly attack the ears and face of dogs. The fly bites are usually on the tips or folded part of the ear in breeds with floppy ears. The bite wounds are often red, crusty, and may ooze blood. They can be very itchy and painful.
      The best prevention is to house the dog indoors where the flies can not get to it. If this is not possible, then it is important to use fly repellant cream or lotion that can be applied to the ears to prevent the attacks. There are also various flea sprays available that may be beneficial. Your veterinarian will be able to recommend a fly prevention product that will help prevent the fly strike.
      If there are areas around the animal that are attracting the flies such as straw piles, manure droppings, trash, or anything else, then removing the source of the flies is important. The use of safe and approved pesticides may also be beneficial.  Consult your veterinarian.

I have to board my dog for about a week. How stressful will it be to him? 
I have to board my dog for about a week. This is very stressful to me -- but how stressful will it be to him?

Chances are, not very.  Be assured that most dogs find boarding to be a fun experience because they get to interact with other dogs. However, boarding can be stressful for animals. Because all pets have different reactions to novel situations, it is difficult to predict whether your dog will have a negative or a positive response.  In addition, there are some health risks associated with exposure to a large population of dogs. Make sure that your dog is current on his vaccines, including the one for kennel cough. The kennel cough intra-nasal vaccine must be given at least three days prior to boarding to be fully effective.
      To make the transition from house to kennel easier, you may want to leave your dog with a toy or a T-shirt that smells of home. Be aware that these items may be damaged or lost, so don't take any items to the kennel that are irreplaceable.  You may also want to find out what diet your dog will be fed while he is boarded. If the facility feeds a diet that is different from the diet your pet receives at home, you may want to supply the kennel with your dog's own food and treats. Keeping a consistent diet helps to prevent diarrhea, which is the most frequent complication of being in a boarding kennel.
      If your pet is receiving prescription or over-the-counter medication, be sure to provide an appropriate amount for the entire boarding period. A complete list of all medication and health needs should be offered to the boarding facility.  Make sure that the staff at the kennel has the telephone number where you can be reached on your trip should your dog have any problems. It is also helpful to provide the kennel with information about your dog's veterinarian as well as a letter stating that if medical treatment is necessary, your veterinarian is authorized to treat your dog. If the trip is extended, you may wish to offer the name of a local contact who is entrusted with decision-making for your pet if you or your veterinarian cannot be reached.
      If your dog has a problem with the kennel, the next time you need to go away you may want to seek out a pet-sitting service. There are many services available in most areas. You can also look into having a pet-sitter come to your house and take care of the dog. This is ideal because the dog does not have to leave the house.

What's a good exercise routine for my dog?
My dog is nine years old, and is a happy, healthy fellow. He does not get much exercise, though. What is a good exercise routine for him?

Keep him active.  There are many ways to exercise your dog, but the key is to start him out slowly and then steadily increase the length and intensity of his workouts. It is the same philosophy as with humans. Too much too fast will cause soreness and could even damage weak ligaments.
      Walking is still one of the best exercises. A medium-sized dog should be walked about one and one-half to two miles a day. Some dogs also love to run, but I would recommend a two or three week walking routine before working up to short jogs. Use your own judgment as to when your dog has had enough by how he acts the following day. If he is getting stiff, or is slow to rise, you should slow things down a bit.
      Games that dogs love to play also provide good exercise. Fetching thrown objects or playing hide-and-seek when two or more people are present are excellent diversions for dogs. We don't recommend tug-of-war because it can cause damage to your dog's teeth and tends to increase aggressive tendencies.
      Other means of exercise include agility training, doggy play-groups, and obedience classes. Most dogs enjoy these activities because it works their mind as well as their body. If you search out a play-group, try to find one that has dogs of similar ages and carefully "test" them together on leashes first. Sometimes play can get out of hand and escalate into a fight.
      If you have any questions about your dog's health and its ability to exercise safely, consult your regular veterinarian. A veterinary examination will reveal if an underlying heart condition or other problem exists that could make exercise dangerous. 

How do I introduce my dog to a new dog?
We are adopting a one-year old retriever mix from the shelter. What is the best way of introducing him to our other two-year old female dog?

Introduce them gradually.  Because both dogs are young, this transition will be a little less stressful for you than if the dogs were older. Introducing pets that are not too set in their ways usually makes things easier. It also helps that one dog is female; female dogs tend to be more accepting of outsiders than a more dominant male.
      It is helpful to try to introduce them very gradually. It would be a good idea if the dogs could meet for the first time on neutral territory. Try taking them to a park or some location that is not on either one of their "turfs." Keep the dogs on leashes and allow them to sniff each other but do not give them the opportunity to fight. This interaction will give you a starting point. If there is aggression on neutral territory it may be quite difficult to move them in together.
      It will be very important for you to reinforce the dominance hierarchy once established. This means that when one dog establishes itself as the top dog and wants attention you must give it to the dominant dog and rebuff the other if it comes seeking attention. This may be hard for you to do as most people feel for the "underdog."  Unfortunately, if you push the dominant dog away to pet the dog of lower status, it can cause the top dog to punish the other pet.
      In most cases there will not be an altercation, but be prepared for one anyway. Keep your pets on leashes even in the house. DO NOT GET BETWEEN FIGHTING DOGS. Even if your pets love you, when they are fighting they may bite you. Use their attached leashes to separate them.  Remember that gradual introduction is the key. Do not expect them to be best friends right away; tolerance is a good thing too.  Also, talk to your veterinarian. If there are problems, the doctor is your best source of information. If the problems are significant he or she may also recommend that a short course of medication is necessary to facilitate the transition.

How do I brush my dog's teeth?
I've heard that it is good to brush your dog's teeth. How do I do this and how often should it be done?

Use veterinary toothpaste.  Brushing your dog's teeth, combined with professional dental cleanings by a veterinarian, is a very important part of maintaining the animal's health. A dog with healthy teeth and gums is more likely to keep its teeth for life, continue to eat hard food, and have less breath odor.  In addition, dogs that have a consistent dental health regimen are less likely to develop bacterial infections of the bloodstream. Bacteria from the teeth are known to colonize the valves of the heart, causing a type of heart disease called bacterial endocarditis.
      Dogs, especially the smaller breeds, actually require the same kind of care for their teeth as people do for theirs. Smaller breeds tend to acquire a tremendous amount of plaque and tartar on their teeth. This is most likely because they often do not chew on bones and other hard items that help with the mechanical breakdown of plaque and tartar, or eat soft, canned food rather than the hard varieties.
      It is important to start brushing your dog's teeth as early in life as possible. Never use human toothpaste, since it contains foaming agents that can cause the dog to vomit if swallowed. Veterinary toothpaste does not contain these foaming agents, so a dog may safely swallow it. Most dogs love the taste of the veterinary toothpaste, which comes in a variety of flavors, including chicken, beef, and malt. (Most pets will try to lick it off the brush before their teeth have been cleaned!) Also available are fluoride sprays and gels that can be applied to the teeth after brushing in order to help prevent tooth decay.
      There are many different types of toothbrushes designed for dogs. Some fit over the finger and are called "finger brushes," while others are very long and angled, with a wide brush head. These can be purchased from a veterinarian or a pet store. Some people use a human toothbrush with soft bristles that will not damage the gums.
      Use the toothbrush on all the surfaces of your dog's teeth -- especially the back molars -- at least one to two times a day. You'll quickly see results in the dog's breath odor. The long-term benefits to its teeth, gums, and general health, will be rewarding to both you and your pet.

What is a "hot spot" in a dog?
My dog, a golden retriever, has a wound on her front right leg. It is about the size of a quarter and she keeps biting at it. She had been biting at this area before the wound appeared. My neighbor called the wound a "hot spot." What is this? What should I do to treat it?

It is an acute skin condition caused by self-inflicted injury.  A "hot spot," or acute moist dermatitis, is an acute, painful, erosive, inflammatory condition of the skin. It results when a dog repeatedly bites or scratches a specific area of its skin or ears. An underlying problem that produces itching or pain usually prompts this self-induced trauma. The hot spot will have a reddish border surrounding a central area of crusty, eroded or ulcerated skin. Hot spots are moist and tend to drain. They often are infected, usually with Staphylococcus intermedius, a bacterium similar to a type that causes boils in people. Small pockets of pus may appear to migrate out from the middle of the hot spot. Hair loss will occur in the affected area. Hot spots tend to occur in dogs living in hot, humid environments and in homes or facilities with poor ventilation. Large breeds are more likely to develop hot spots than smaller dog breeds.
      There are many different conditions that may cause a dog to engage in this biting and scratching behavior. The most common cause is fleabite allergy. When a dog becomes sensitive to flea saliva, a fleabite will cause intense, persistent itching. Other allergies, including inhalation (atopy) and food allergies, may also cause scratching and biting that leads to the development of hot spots. Other conditions that may stimulate self trauma include inflammatory conditions of the skin, ears or anal sacs, bacterial, fungal or parasitic infections, and joint or muscle pain. Canine behavioral disorders may cause this as well.
      Diagnosis of acute moist dermatitis is based on history, clinical signs of biting and scratching and the findings of a physical examination. Diagnosis of the underlying cause may require laboratory tests. These may include various skin tests for allergies, fleas and other parasites, fungal and yeast infections, or bacterial culture and susceptibility. Occasionally a skin biopsy may be necessary.
      Treatment is directed both at the hot spot and the underlying cause of the biting or scratching.  An Elizabethan collar may be used to mechanically bar biting and scratching of the affected areas. Treatment for hot spots starts with clipping the moist hair to expose the lesion to the air. Clipping is a very important factor in treating these lesions, as they need to dry out in order to heal. Topical or oral medications, including corticosteroids (for their anti-inflammatory effect), antibiotics, and anti-pruritics (anti-itching drugs) may be given to help resolve the hot spot. Occasionally injectable forms of these medications are given. Drying agents may also be appropriate.
      The underlying cause of the affected dog's biting and scratching is treated accordingly. If fleas or other parasites are involved, parasiticides are given and other control measures are taken. If allergies are causing the itching, antihistamines may be prescribed, as well as allergy shots if the allergen (the substance causing the allergic reaction) cannot be avoided. If pain due to arthritis or other conditions is involved, appropriate analgesics and anti-inflammatory medications may be prescribed.
       You should take your dog to your veterinarian for a physical examination. First your veterinarian will make sure that the problem your dog has is a hot spot. Then he or she will determine the underlying cause of your dog's biting and scratching and recommend treatment. Your veterinarian may give you topical medications to help dry the lesion out and decrease the itch. Injections of steroids or oral steroid medications are often used for the acute flare-ups, but long-term control may be better achieved by successfully treating the underlying disorder.

How do I cure my dog's bad breath?
My dog has very bad breath. I give him Milk Bones regularly and brush his teeth, but it does not help. What can I do to eliminate the odor?

Consult a veterinarian to determine the underlying cause and treat accordingly.  Bad breath, or halitosis, can be caused by many different medical and dental problems -- some of which may be serious. Because a potentially serious problem may be the cause of your dog's bad breath, you should make an appointment with your veterinarian for an examination to determine the cause. Some smaller breeds of dogs, such as poodles and Schnauzers, are well known for being predisposed to dental disease. Brachycephalic, or short-headed, dog breeds like the pug and bulldog also have a higher risk of developing dental problems.
      Bad breath in dogs may be due to dental disorders such as periodontal disease, gingivitis and plaque buildup on the teeth, significant oral cavity disease such as abscesses, sores or ulcers, decaying tissue associated with cancer, and infections. Kidney and other organ system disease and diabetes and other metabolic problems may also cause halitosis.
      Although some tartar control treats and brushing are helpful, if your dog's foul odor is due to plaque buildup, a professional dental cleaning will be necessary. More extensive dental problems may require specialized veterinary dental care. If other problems exist, such as infection, abscess, tumors, or metabolic or other systemic diseases, they will require veterinary attention. Please consult your veterinarian promptly.

How can I tell if my dog has an ear infection?

Check your dog's ears regularly.  An ear infection is a common ailment in dogs, especially if they have skin conditions or allergies. Most owners will not pick up on the symptoms of an ear infection until the dog's symptoms are severe. The earlier an infection is detected and treated, the faster the dog will recover, and the less pain and discomfort it will have to endure.
      It is recommended that you thoroughly check your companion on a regular basis. This good habit will allow you to detect problems sooner and will teach your dog to cooperate during an examination. It will be much easier to treat your pet for an illness if it has already become accustomed to having you touch various parts of its body.
      To evaluate the ears, you should look at how your dog holds its head. Is it holding its head normally, or is it tilting it slightly to one side? Are both of the ears being held in the same position, or is one drooping more than the other? Is the dog scratching its ears more than usual? The best test is to lift the earflap and smell. If you detect a foul odor, chances are that an ear infection is present or is about to occur.  If the infection is severe, you may even be able to see redness within the ear canal, as well as infective debris draining from the ear. Infected ears are extremely painful, so be gentle when checking them. You can tie a tube sock around your dog's muzzle to discourage biting, but do not put yourself in danger if your dog is showing its teeth.
      If you detect any abnormalities, or your dog won't allow you to examine its ears, you should schedule the first available veterinary appointment. The veterinarian will determine the best course of action based on your dog's level of pain and the stage of the disease.
      After the acute stage of an ear infection is controlled, it is important to properly clean your dog's ears. An experienced animal health provider can teach you how to do this. Regular ear cleanings may prevent ear infections from occurring in the future. This is especially necessary if your dog swims a great deal, since excessive moisture in the ear can lead to infection.

How do I clean my dog's ears?
My dog's ears seem to develop some kind of build up in them. Lately he also has been scratching his ears a lot. Could his ears need cleaning out?

With cotton and a veterinarian-recommended cleaner.  Many people may not realize that routine grooming is an important part of caring for one's pet. More frequent ear cleaning may be required for dogs that suffer from ear infections.
      My first recommendation is to have your veterinarian check your dog's ears for infection, mites and other problems. You can often tell if there is something wrong by smelling the ear area. If you smell a bad odor, chances are that there is something going on in the ear canal. If your dog is scratching at the ears or shaking his head, the problem is severe enough to be causing some discomfort.
      There are different products used to clean the ears. Please consult your veterinarian about the appropriate cleaning agent for your dog's ears.  Most veterinarians will be more than happy to demonstrate an effective, painless cleaning method. I will provide a short overview for you. Either squirt the cleaner into the ear canal or soak a cotton ball with the solution and put it into the ear canal. Gently massage the ear at its base to distribute the cleaner for about 60 seconds.
      Use your finger and cotton balls to clear the cleaner and debris from the ear canal. Wipe the ear from front to back. Repeat this process until the cotton balls no longer appear dirty after wiping the ear. Allowing your dog to shake his head in between these steps may help loosen any debris that is deeper in the canal--just be sure to plan ahead for a mild mess.  Avoid using Q-Tips, as you can puncture your dog's eardrum with them. Use your pinky and smaller pieces of cotton to clean the many crevices.
      If your veterinarian prescribes any topical ear medications for your dog, apply it once the ear is clean. Your veterinarian will recommend how often you should clean and medicate the ears.

How often does a dog need to urinate and have a bowel movement?
I have an adult dog. How often does she need to go outside to urinate and have bowel movements? I have been letting my dog out so frequently, that I do not know how often she really needs to go out to eliminate as opposed to going out to run around in the yard. Lately she has not been as interested in going outside as often as before. How long can she go without urinating or having a bowel movement before I should become concerned that it may be a medical problem? Thank you.

It depends on dietary factors.  Typically, dogs need to go outside to defecate after they eat. This usually will happen one or a few times a day. The frequency depends on what type of food the dog eats (dry or canned), the amount of food eaten, and the amount of fiber in the diet. Diets with higher fiber content typically cause more bowel movements. 
      Dogs should urinate at least every eight to 10 hours. The actual frequency may vary according to dietary factors, including sodium (salt) or glucose (sugar) content and the amount of water consumed. Generally, normal daily urinary output in dogs is less than 20 milliliters per pound. Amounts greater than this may indicate an underlying health problem. There are many conditions associated with excessive urination, or polyuria.
      I recommend letting your dog out first thing in the morning, after she eats, before you go to bed, and a few other times during the day. If your dog strains to defecate, stops eating, is vomiting, has diarrhea or doesn't have a bowel movement regularly (this will really depend on what is normal for your dog), or if urination seems excessive or unusually infrequent, you should seek the advice of your veterinarian.

We're having a baby in three months. How can we help our dog accept the new addition to our family?
We want our dog to welcome the baby we are expecting.  How can we get him excited about the new addition?

Careful planning.  It is much better to give thought to this question now than to wait until after your baby is born. You have allowed yourselves some time to become educated and to train your dog to interact with the new family member.  Get at least two training books dealing specifically with children and dogs. There is a large amount of information available on how to make this transition as pleasant and stress-free as possible.
      In addition, if your dog has not already completed a basic training course, we recommend enrolling it in one now. For the best chances of success, you and the other family members need to have complete control of your dog. You should also carefully assess how your dog reacts to children of different ages. There are some dogs that do not tolerate children well, and they can be very difficult and dangerous to deal with. In extreme cases, it may be in the best interest of both your dog and baby to place the animal in a home that has no children.
      The most important thing that you should remember is that you should NEVER leave your baby and your dog alone together, under any circumstances.  Accidents happen, even with dogs that have shown no previous signs of aggression. Take the few seconds that it takes to put the dog in a crate or some other secure place. Do not risk your child being bitten or even killed by any dog, including your own. We hate to be so grim, but there are many sad stories of this very thing happening when it could have been prevented.

Other Preparation Tips:

  • Try to establish a workable feeding and exercise routine before the baby arrives.
  • Do not lavish your dog with extra attention that it will miss after the baby is born.
  • Allow the dog to explore the nursery and become familiar with the new items there. Train your dog to recognize that baby items are not dog toys. This may take some practice, since many baby toys look similar to dog toys.
  • Have someone bring home from the hospital a baby blanket with the baby's scent on it. This will allow the dog to become familiar with the baby's odor before it arrives.
  • Make the first meeting between animal and child no big deal, with little fan fare. Once you and the baby are calm and settled, let your dog come over to investigate. Do not force a dog to interact with the new "intruder." Praise the dog calmly when it is near the baby.
  • Did you know that barking is less startling to a baby that has been exposed while in utero to the regular barking of a dog?

These are just a few suggestions but there is a lifetime of monitoring and training that you will need to do. If you are having any fears or trouble, you should contact a professional trainer immediately.

My female dog leaks urine when she rests or sleeps. Why is this happening?
My female dog was spayed at two years of age.  When she sleeps or rests, she leaks urine. I give her hormone pills, called phenylpropanolamine, and was told these would not hurt her. Why does she leak urine? Are these pills safe?

This is a common problem with several different causes.  Urinary incontinence, or leakage of urine, is commonly seen in middle-aged and older spayed females or neutered male dogs. Many veterinarians believe that a lack of hormones causes the urethral sphincter muscle to lose tone, therefore allowing urine to leak. However, there are several causes of urinary leakage. Hormone-responsive urinary incontinence is diagnosed after first ruling out a urinary tract infection and other urination problems.
      Phenylpropanolamine is a medication that increases the tone of the urethral sphincter muscle, which helps to hold urine in the bladder. It is a relatively safe and effective medication that is one of the drugs of choice for urinary incontinence in older spayed female dogs. It is not a hormone, but an alpha-adrenergic drug.
      Many experts now recommend the use of hormone replacement with a drug called diethylstilbestrol, or DES, in spayed female dogs. DES is typically given once a day for three to five days, then only once every seven to 15 days as needed to control the incontinence. Some dogs only need one pill every three weeks to prevent the leaking of urine. DES in high dosages can cause estrus, or heat-like signs, as well as bone marrow toxicity. However, in low dosages, this is usually not a problem. Male dogs can be given testosterone hormone replacement.
      The phenylpropanolamine may be used instead of, or in addition to, DES or testosterone. Side effects of phenylpropanolamine can include hyperexcitability, panting, and decreased appetite. It also increases heart rate and blood pressure, so it should not be given with drugs such as ephedrine that may have similar effects. Hypertension, or high blood pressure, may develop when phenylpropanolamine is given with aspirin and other non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents. When these drugs are used in combination, careful veterinary monitoring is required. This drug may need to be given one to three times a day to control incontinence.
      Your veterinarian will be able to determine the best treatment protocol for your dog as well as the best dosage for these medications. The best treatment is the one that works, that does not cause your dog any problems, and that is easy to administer.

Why should I neuter my dog when I can prevent him from mating with another dog?
I can keep my dog from mating with other dogs, so why is it important to get him neutered?

Neutering may protect him from cancer.  Most of us are told to neuter our pets to decrease the overabundance of unadopted dogs that are put to death in animal shelters. Although this is a valid argument, it is not the sole reason that neutering should be considered.
      Unneutered male dogs have a higher incidence of certain cancers and prostatic diseases. Female dogs that are left intact are more likely to develop mammary tumors, uterine and ovarian cancers, and uterine infections. All of these medical conditions can be quite serious, and may even result in a shortened life span for your companion. Neutered pets tend to live longer and enjoy a healthier life.
      Dogs that resist training may also benefit from neutering, because after the procedure they more likely to accept the owner's leadership. Neutered dogs are also less likely to roam the neighborhood -- and hence have a lesser risk of being hit by a car, being involved in a dogfight, or becoming a nuisance to your neighbors.

Should I breed my dog?
I am thinking about breeding my dog.  Is this a good idea?

Breeding can be costly and risky.  Unfortunately, most people don't realize how much work, time and expense is involved in the process of breeding.  The first thing that you must consider is whether your pet should be bred. Most pets, although lovable, are not of breeding quality. Genetic defects and other problems should not be perpetuated, because they can cause serious medical problems for future generations. People who breed dogs for a living are very careful about choosing which dogs they will breed based on physical characteristics and behavior.
      Some people decide that it would be fun to breed and just start looking for a dog that has the proper equipment and is willing. This can be a huge mistake. Breeding your pet is a serious endeavor and should not be taken lightly. There are far too many pets that end up in shelters without good homes. If your breed of dog has large litters, what will you do if you are unable to sell the puppies? Do you want to contribute to the pet overpopulation problem?
      In addition, there are many good reasons not to breed your dog. First, for the dog's own health. Male dogs that are neutered are less likely to be hit by cars. This is primarily due to the fact that male dogs have a very strong urge to roam and find a fertile female. Male dogs will go over or under fences, through doors and windows, and will pull leashes out of unsuspecting hands. Additionally, neutering greatly reduces the incidence of prostatic disease and testicular cancer.
      Similar health benefits are found by spaying your female dog. If you have your female spayed before a year of age you greatly decrease her chances of developing breast cancer. Additionally, you eliminate the possibility of uterine infections and cancer. Another benefit is that you will not have to clean up after a messy heat cycle, or chase persistent male dogs out of your yard.
      If you still feel that you want to breed your pet, note that dogs should be tested for a contagious disease called brucellosis prior to breeding. Not only does this disease cause spontaneous abortion in dogs, but humans can contract it as well. There is a blood test to screen for this disease that can be done by your veterinarian. Because dogs can carry this disease without showing any outward signs, screening for brucellosis is important.

How can carsickness in a dog be treated?
Can I give my dog any medication for carsickness, such as Antivert or Dramamine? She vomits in the car. I would like to take her with me when I visit my sister who lives an hour and a half away. Is there any other treatment?

Carsickness may be treated with behavioral modification and occasionally medication.  Dogs may get carsick for two reasons: motion sickness and car-related anxiety. Motion sickness occurs when the moving vehicle causes excessive and continuous stimulation of the vestibular (balancing) system of the inner ear, which transmits signals to the flocculonodular lobe (part of the cerebellum) of the brain. This stimulation in turn activates the vomiting center of the dog's brain. Anxiety-induced carsickness is caused when the affected dog becomes fearful of some aspect of traveling in a car.
      Many veterinarians believe that carsickness in animals is more often due to anxiety (nervous or anxious behavior) than to the motion of the vehicle. This is the opposite circumstance to that of humans; most carsickness in people results from vehicular motion rather than anxiety. Although Dramamine (dimenhydrinate) or Antivert (meclizine) can be used safely in dogs, these drugs may not be effective in preventing anxiety-induced carsickness.
      Most cases of carsick dogs can be resolved using behavioral modification techniques. Ideally efforts to "desensitize" dogs to car travel-related sickness should begin when they are puppies. Taking a puppy on numerous car trips of short duration may help. Generally the puppy should not have eaten within an hour or two of the trip at first. As travel anxiety abates, this restriction may be relaxed. Gradually, longer trips can be added until the dog is relatively free of car travel-related anxiety.
      I recommend that you discuss options for decreasing carsickness with your veterinarian. He or she will know your pet's temperament best and be able to make an appropriate recommendation. Your veterinarian may prescribe a mild sedative and recommend additional conditioning techniques. The doctor will also examine your dog to make certain that there are no physical ailments, such as an inner ear problem, neurological disorder, metabolic disease, or toxin exposure, contributing to your dog's symptoms.

I've just brought home a new puppy.  What do I need to do?
I just took home a new puppy.  What are the first steps I need to take as her owner?

Make an appointment with a veterinarian.  If this is your first dog, you will soon come to know the special bond that forms between human and animal. Studies have been done about the many health benefits of the human-animal bond. As long as you carefully foster the relationship, no one will love and respect you as much as a dog.
      Many people joke that they'll try raising a dog before having children. But owning a dog is like having a child that remains in childhood for its entire life. Puppies need constant observation, just like toddlers. As adult dogs, they may need less intense observation.  Nevertheless, they still can be quite destructive or suffer dangerous problems if left unsupervised.
      We recommend that you schedule a puppy check-up with a veterinarian as soon as possible. Most shelters, breeders, and pet stores require a post-purchase exam within 72 hours of taking home your new puppy. Take any records of your puppy's deworming and vaccinations. It is also a good idea to write down a list of questions that you may have for your veterinarian.
      The veterinarian will examine the puppy to determine if it seems healthy and free of disease. After reviewing past records, a schedule for deworming and future vaccinations will be determined. Puppies need to receive multiple vaccinations until they reach the age of 19 to 20 weeks. You should limit your puppy's exposure to unknown dogs as well as canine excrement until the pet has completed its vaccination series.
      As a newcomer to a human household, your puppy probably is going through many changes that can be very scary and stressful. It is helpful for you to plan for your new companion's homecoming ahead of time.

A list some of things you will need are:

  • Food that the puppy has been eating. You can switch the diet over to a brand that you prefer, but you should do this slowly, over a two week period, to prevent stomach upset and diarrhea.
  • A crate or carrier to be used as a sleeping area and for housetraining, once the puppy is used to it.
  • Blankets or a lambswool pad for the crate.
  • A baby gate or multiple gates.
  • Newspaper or piddle pads.
  • Food and water bowls, preferably metal.
  • Antichew agents that can be applied to furniture, houseplants, and other household objects.
  • Appropriate chew toys.
  • A wide, flat collar that is fitted properly. You will go through a number of these as the puppy grows.
  • A four-foot leash.
  • Appropriate grooming tools ? a slicker brush, a comb, cotton balls for ear cleaning, and other essentials.

We hope that this is information will help you get started.  Keep learning all that you can about your puppy so that you will be prepared to care for it throughout its life.

My dog is always scooting around the floor on his rear. What could be his problem?
My dog has been acting strangely.  He's always scooting around the floor on his rear.  Why is he doing this?  Should I be concerned?

Anal sac impaction is a common reason that dogs scoot. Full anal sacs cause irritation and pressure around the anus. Dogs scoot in an attempt to relieve the sensations. Your veterinarian can check your dog's anal sacs and express them, hence eliminating this as a potential problem.
      Your dog should be checked for tapeworms and other intestinal parasites, as these may also cause dogs to scoot. Tapeworms commonly appear as "white rice"segments around the dog's anus or in the stool. If you have seen this, tell your veterinarian.
      Other potential causes of scooting can include sensitivity to diet, flea allergy, or skin infection.  Consult with your veterinarian for a specific diagnosis.

How do I learn to express my dog's anal sacs?
My toy poodle's anal sacs do not empty properly. Is it possible for me to express my dog's anal sacs at home? How do I learn to do this?

Have your veterinarian or a technician teach you the proper technique.  There are two anal sacs. Using clock-face position references, one is situated at four o'clock and the other is at eight o'clock just inside the rectum. The sacs fill with secretions from the anal glands and when full they feel like grapes when palpated with the fingers. The best way to learn how to express a dog's anal glands is to go to your veterinarian and have the veterinarian or a veterinary technician show you how to do this properly. (Please be aware that this is not as easy as it looks.) Then you could try it while the doctor or technician watches and guides you. The veterinarian or technician could do one side and you could do the other. Once you learn the proper technique, you should be able to do it from then on without difficulty unless the glands become impacted.
       When expressing the anal sacs at home, I recommend that you have rubber examination gloves and Baby Wipes or paper towels handy. Put the Baby Wipes or paper towels between your gloved hand and your dog's rear end to catch the material expressed from the anal sacs. I also recommend doing this procedure outdoors. Anal glands are scent glands that produce a foul-smelling material; expressing the sacs can be a very messy task at times, especially in the home. 
      You should also be aware that medical problems involving the anal glands and sacs occasionally occur. These include infection and abscess, tumors, and inflammatory conditions. These problems require prompt veterinary medical attention. You may wish to talk to your veterinarian about what signs of these problems to look for when expressing your dog's anal sacs. I always tell pet owners contemplating doing this at home that they may change their minds after expressing the anal glands once or twice because it isn't a pleasant job and it can be messy.